For millennia, gold has remained the ultimate symbol of wealth, prestige, and emotional investment. Whether it is for a wedding dowry or a hedge against inflation, this precious metal is deeply interwoven with human life. However, in the modern marketplace, terminology such as ‘carat’, ‘hallmark’, and ‘alloy’ often leaves buyers bewildered. Understanding these nuances is vital to ensure that your investment is both genuine and fair.
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Decoding the Carat System
The purity of gold is measured internationally in carats (K). While 24K gold is the pinnacle of purity, its inherent softness makes it unsuitable for intricate jewellery. To create durable pieces, pure gold is mixed with base metals like copper, silver, zinc, or nickel—a process known as alloying (locally termed khad). The more alloy added, the lower the carat rating, but the higher the durability.
In Bangladesh, the Bangladesh Jewellers Association (BAJUS) regulates prices based on these purity levels. While traditional units like vhori, ana, and ratti are still used domestically, the industry is increasingly aligning with the international standard of grams.
Gold Purity and Usage Standards
| Carat | Purity Percentage | Hallmark Code | Primary Usage |
| 24K | 99.9% | 999 | Investment bars, coins, and biscuits. |
| 22K | 91.67% | 916 | Traditional jewellery (bangles, necklaces). |
| 21K | 87.5% | 875 | Daily wear items (rings, chains, earrings). |
| 18K | 75.0% | 750 | Diamond-set and stone-heavy jewellery. |
Identifying Genuine Gold: The Importance of Hallmarking
The most reliable method for a consumer to verify gold is the Hallmark. This is a laser-etched or stamped mark on the interior of the jewellery. According to Enamul Haque Khan Dolon, President of BAJUS, checking for the hallmark seal (e.g., ‘916’ for 22K) is the first line of defence against fraud.
BAJUS is currently digitising this process. A new online system and mobile app will soon allow customers to scan a unique code on their jewellery to verify its origin, carat weight, and authenticity instantly.
Modern Safety: The Shift from KDM to Hallmarked Gold
Previously, ‘KDM gold’ was popular in South Asia. This involved using Cadmium as a soldering agent to maintain gold purity while joining pieces. However, due to the toxic fumes produced during the crafting process and potential skin irritation for the wearer, Cadmium has been largely banned. Modern jewellers now use zinc or gold-based alloys for soldering, which are safer and fall under standard hallmarking protocols.
Practical Tips for the Savvy Buyer
Nitric Acid Test: Genuine gold does not react to nitric acid, whereas fakes will turn green.
Magnetism: Gold is non-magnetic. If your jewellery is attracted to a magnet, it contains a significant amount of iron or other ferrous metals.
The Ceramic Test: Dragging gold across an unglazed ceramic plate should leave a gold streak; a black streak indicates a counterfeit.